L-track rail, also called cargo or captive rail, is a versatile extruded aluminium profile with cut-outs designed to secure cargo and attach various accessories inside vehicles. Helen from Loaded Bikes presents this video, which shows how it significantly increases available lashing points and can be anchored to almost any part of a vehicle’s substructure or flooring. Two main variations are available: surface-mounted rails that attach directly to flat areas, and flush rails that require rebating into flooring at least 12 mm thick. These components are supplied pre-finished with symmetric countersunk holes for straightforward installation. The accessories are also engineered to be compatible with multiple brands, giving users flexibility if they already have alternative tracks installed in their transport vehicles.
Using L-Track rail (also known as Elrak, cargo rail, Unwin rail, or captive rail) in vehicles provides several key benefits:
Versatile accessory integration: Its extruded aluminium profile with internal cut-outs lets items clip into or glide along the rail, accommodating specialised attachments such as bike fork mounts, padded threshold mats, cargo straps, and ring-stud fixings.
Significantly more lashing points: It creates a huge amount more secure attachment points within a vehicle than what comes standard from the factory
Flexible placement options: L-Track can be fixed to pretty much any section of the vehicle’s floor or substructure to fit your specific layout, available in both surface-mounted and flush-mounted profiles
Cross-brand compatibility: Accessories designed for L-Track are widely compatible across different manufacturers’ rails (such as Mercedes or Unwin), so you are not locked into a single brand.
Let’s compare surface-mounted and flush-mounted L-Track
- Installation method: Surface-mounted rail fastens directly onto the top of your existing flooring. Flush-mounted rail features a rear profile designed to be rebated (recessed) into the floor so the track sits flush with the surface.
- Floor thickness requirements: Flush-mounted rail requires at least 12 mm of floor depth. On a 12 mm floor, the rail’s underside rests directly against the van’s metal floor; on an 18 mm floor, a 6 mm plywood layer remains beneath the rail. Surface-mounted rail has no minimum rebate depth requirement.
- Profile width and finishing: Flush-mounted rail is wider overall to accommodate the rebating flange on either side. Surface-mounted rail uses a narrower profile and comes with machined end caps to smoothly cover exposed rail ends. Both options feature pre-grained aluminium finishing and symmetrically spaced countersunk mounting holes.
- Tools: A drill with an 8.2 mm drill bit, clamps to hold the rail in place, and enough fixings for every bore hole and end cap.
- Fixings: Riv-nuts or nuts and bolts through the substructure/floor (riv-nuts require a step drill to enlarge pilot holes).
- Anti-corrosion supplies: Primer paint and a deburring tool.
- Optional Drill Jig Kit: A purpose-made kit with a drill bush, depth collar, and location pins that restricts drill depth and keeps holes perfectly perpendicular and aligned
- Clearance Check: Position your rail and thoroughly check underneath/behind the panel to ensure you won’t drill into wiring, fuel tanks, or external bodywork.
- Clamp & Drill: Clamp the rail tightly in place. Drill through the pre-spaced bore holes using a low drill speed (without hammer mode). If using a jig kit, insert locator pins after the first hole to prevent the rail from shifting.
- Drill End Caps: Drill the mounting holes for the rail end caps following the same process.
- Prep & Rust Prevention: Deburr all drilled holes and prime any exposed metal to protect against corrosion.
- Fasten & Finish: Once the paint is dry, bolt or rivnut the rail down to the vehicle floor and clip/fasten the machined end caps into place
